Two Farms in Adams County Grow with the Small Farm Sustainability Stipend
Written by Erin Lenninger, Conservation Coordinator
Wisconsin is truly diverse in its agricultural landscape. We can easily get locked in to what we are most known for… dairy! Or what a region is known for…cranberries? Ginseng? Cherries? In the Central Sands of Wisconsin, we may often think of potatoes. And that is because a lot of potatoes are grown there! I love thinking about the land and how it shapes our habits, our livelihoods…and our dinner plates!
Ideally, ecosystems and agricultural production that is diverse and works in reciprocity with the land will allow us to live off of and love this land for generations to come. We have some of the most amazing dairies in the Badger State AND we are showcasing small and diverse growing in inspiring ways as well.
While the Central Sands do produce a lot of potatoes (and my Norwegian heart thanks them), I was so inspired to find two women with area farms that have a totally different operation. While following up with recipients from the Small Farm Sustainability Stipend, I was thrilled to realize I could visit two farms in one day in Adams County. They knew of each other and we decided to make it a broader invitation, inviting any local WFU members to come for tours and conversations.
Roche-A-Cri Farm
My first stop was at Roche-A-Cri Farm to walk and talk with Emily Goulding. The farm is not far north of Highway 21, easy to get to and offers the folks of Adams County fruit, vegetables, herbs, and flowers. Emily and her husband, Devin, purchased 80 acres in 2018. The property includes a 5-acre homestead, 35 acres of woodlands, and a 5-acre fenced growing space, with the remainder in hay production. The property enjoys the Big Roche-A-Cri Creek running through and ample wildlife around.
Emily and Devin were looking to grow food for themselves and their community and found the perfect spot almost exactly halfway between the Twin Cities and Chicago (their hometown areas). After learning and mentoring in ag systems in Illinois, the couple knew they would need time to rework this Adams County soil that had been in a corn/soy rotation for years. Soil testing revealed the need for a lot of improvement and amendments. They focused on increasing biodiversity and starting relatively small. You can tell they absorbed the wisdom of others… their long-term plan is one of perennial systems with low labor.
Emily shared the uniqueness of Adams County and figuring out the markets for fruit and vegetables. They participated in the Rome Farmers Market from 2018 to 2025 but stepped away this season. The farmers market allowed them to create important relationships with many residents and tourists alike. However, they are excited to scale up their on-farm sales, CSAs, and focus on bulk buying for storage and preservation. They are also excited to scale up what has been successful: flowers and elderberries.
The couple has been dedicated to soil health from the start, enrolling in the Conservation Stewardship Program (CSP), utilizing cover crops and mulch, rotating beds, and putting in bluebird boxes and wind breaks. Emily shared how helpful and responsive the local Natural Resources Conservation Service (NRCS) office has been, willing to understand a smaller scale farm and non-potato operation.
While the couple is connected to organizations like Marbleseed and attends conferences like the Organic Vegetable Production Conference, Emily spoke to the loneliness they can sometimes feel in this rural part of the state, especially when it comes to connecting to other farms focused on the same principles. When I visited in the spring, she shared how excited she was for the 2026 season and welcoming people out for U-Pick flowers and other farm sales. It will be a slight adaptation after five growing seasons, but an exciting pivot for efficiency and farmer fulfillment. This change will also allow them to lean into their passion for community education around food and agriculture.
Elderberry sales have been going great and the couple sells the berries whole and frozen. Value-added items may be in their future, but currently they sell whole to individuals and some local businesses. The Midwest Elderberry Co-op is a fantastic resource for growers, and Emily spoke about the demand for and ease of selling this crop so far. Their 5-acre parcel where they grow specialty produce has been deeply affected by deer pressure. The installation of an 8-foot deer fence and electrification hasn’t been 100% effective unfortunately, but it has reduced the pressure enough for the elderberries and other perennials to thrive. Their perennial section includes all kinds of berries and medicinal herbs. The space is designed for walking and foraging.
Emily has learned a lot about elderberries, going deep into the research, trying different varieties, and working to amend the soil for this growing. Emily used the Small Farm Sustainability Stipend (SFSS) to extend her orchard by another row and add the needed compost and mulch to support successful and early growth. They were able to implement this in early 2025 and felt this support was able to move this perennial system and market forward in a big way for the 2025 season. Emily has indicated a desire for hosting a field day focused on elderberries and gathering with other peers to learn more and support each other in this emerging market.
ZanBria Artisan Farms
After chatting in the cool sun for a bit longer and scaring off eagles circling the guinea fowl, we parted and I let Emily get back to work. I was headed next to ZanBria Artisan Farms, just seven miles away. I arrived and was welcomed into Heather Gayton’s kitchen for tea and conversation with three local WFU members, Yolibeth, Gary, and Russ, as well as Regional Membership Coordinator Allison Crook. We introduced ourselves, shared some stories, and warmed up a bit before taking the tour.
Heather spoke as she took us out into her woods and former hay field. She has extensive experience in caring for the land, both in Adams County and throughout the state. Her family has owned land in Adams for years and she purchased this 20 acres from her father in 2019. She shared her dreams of curating her own multidisciplinary space to learn and grow through nature. She is an educator at heart and has worked as an outreach specialist for UW-Madison, as a watershed coordinator, and is currently a public school teacher. She is passionate about conservation topics, networking, and facilitating growth and adaptation in rural spaces across the state.
The work on her own farm is moving forward in stages, first with a solid and winding driveway, built with assistance from the Army Corps of Engineers, that meanders through the woods and allows for the Little Roche-A-Cri to ebb and flow as needed. Somehow this is so charming and unique as you enter the property but also showcases Heather’s desired relationship with the land. In the first couple of years, she put up a high tunnel, a “she-shed” for starting seeds (and a warm place to sip tea), and some spaces for her horse and rabbit. She is utilizing the embankment down to an ephemeral pond to grow ginseng. A struggle in the first year, but she is continuing on and is a registered ginseng grower. She is experimenting with growing perennials in her high tunnel, and in her use of compost. After using some that was less than ideal, she has started working with a local coffee roaster, Friendly Brew, and is excited about this local relationship (and better compost material!).
Heather used the SFSS to utilize local help in removing invasive species and begin planting native perennial fruit and nut species in her woodlands. She is doing this to increase biodiversity, restore the shoreline, and support native pollinators and wildlife populations. Her goal is to bring people out to learn about ecological systems, foraging, food sovereignty, and the reciprocal relationship between all living things. These plans include larger projects as well, such as foraging paths considering all levels of accessibility and building out a natural amphitheater space for education and performances. Her love of art and music infuses these future plans. The farm already proudly showcases a mural depicting the Roche-A-Cri River running through Adams County and she hopes to blend music education and nature for local school children as well.
Through her earlier professional endeavors, Heather remains quite connected to local farmers and watershed work. She enjoys a great relationship with the Friendship Lake District, Petenwell & Castle Rock Stewards (PACERS), Trout Unlimited (TU) and UWSP. She is involved in multiple projects concerning water quality, monitoring, infrastructure, innovation, and access to local waters. This includes a project with UWSP and TU to build out boardwalks to the oxbow bend of the Big Roche-A-Cri on her property.
The deep care and concern of Adams County waters and working lands was the topic of most conversations during the tour. WFU members discussed county and agency staff, larger farms in the area, land use changes, and water quality impacts over the years. It was an afternoon that carried the work of Gary, Russ, and others forward to the work and future visions of Emily and Heather’s farms.
It is easy to feel a little bit small in a region, in a market, or in an industry. However, seeing hope personified, walking out the plans of the future, and seeing how determination is carried from generation to generation… I understand that we may at times feel small, but we are most definitely mighty.
Learn more about WFU's Small Farm Sustainability Stipend at https://www.wisconsinfarmersunion.com/sustainability-stipend
Comments